And I must answer.
Okay, that may be a bit overly dramatic ... but anyone who's ever visited Michigan's stunning and utterly wild Upper Peninsula will tell you that it's a life-changing - even spiritual - experience.
Just FYI, the pic above is cheating. It was taken off the shore in Bayfield, Wisconsin, which is not the UP; but it's as close to my precious UP as I've been lately, so gimme a break. I'm jonsesing.
ANYHOODLE.
The Upper Peninsula of Michigan, also known as the U.P., is a region located in the northern part of Michigan, USA. It is separated from the rest of the state by the Straits of Mackinac and is surrounded by Lake Superior, Lake Michigan, and Lake Huron
Quick facts about the UP:
Population: around 300,000 people. Fun stat - despite encompassing 29% of Michigan's land area, the UP only holds 3% of its total population. It's dotted with haunting ghost towns - oh, that's a whole blog in itself - and abandoned mine buildings. For comparison, the city of Milwaukee has 569,330. So yeah. Almost twice the population of the UP.
Geography: It covers an area of about 16,000 square miles and is the largest peninsula in the United States. It's known for its rugged terrain, abundant forests, and numerous freshwater lakes, rivers, and waterfalls. There are even mountains. Kind of. The highest point in the Porcupine Mountains is the Summit Peak Observation Tower, not quite 2,000 feet above sea level. Comparison: Colorado's highest peak, Mount Elbert, would tower over the Porkies with an elevation of 14,439'.
Economy: The economy of the UP now is largely based on tourism, natural resources (such as forestry, mining, and fishing), and manufacturing. (BTW, going back to that crazy population - during its peak during the mining and timber boom in the early 1900s, the UP was home to as much as 11% of Michigan's population.)
Culture: The Upper Peninsula's demographic includes Native American, Finnish, Swedish, and Cornish communities. Residents call themselves Yoopers, and they are hardy, able to survive harsh winters and maximize the short, beautiful summers with as many outdoor activities as possible. They eat a bizarre meat and rutabaga concoction called a "pasty", they love saunas, and they call residents of the lower peninsula "trolls" (cuz trolls live under bridges!!!).
Weather: The UP's subarctic climate is characterized by the aforementioned long, cold winters and short, cool summers. Average winter temperatures range from 5-20°F, while average summer temperatures range from 50-70°F. In the summer, tourists should be wary of the ubiquitous blackflies. They bite. And it hurts. They can last all summer but their nastiness drops off around mid-July. Odd as it sounds, spring is actually an awesome time to camp up there - but I digress.
Natural attractions: Where do we start?! The UP is home to state and national parks such as Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Isle Royale National Park, and Hiawatha National Forest. These parks and others are known for their scenic byways, hiking trails, waterfalls (<3), and are perfect for outdoor recreation opportunities such as hunting, fishing, snowmobiling, and camping.
Okay, so them's the basics. The need-to-know high school research paper deets about one of the most beautiful places in the world. But no list of stats can come close to describing - or trying to describe - what it's like.
Let's say you're traveling from the south - like most tourists do - and because of my own location, I'm going to say you're traveling Up Nort' (as we say) from Madison, Milwaukee, Chicago, or further south like Iowa. (Of course, thousands of trolls from the lower part of Michigan also flock to the gorgeous UP in the warmer months, but I ain't from there - I have yet to experience the Mighty Mac, sadly. So this is what we got.)
Flocks of southerners travel to the UP yearly. That number was 1.2 million in 2020, actually. Many of these are return visitors - because once you've been up there, all you can think about is when you're going back. Some of these tourists have owned a family cabin the UP for generations and experience all their summer vacations along the shore of Lake Superior.
And some are seeing it for the first time. That was me, in the early spring of 2021. ('Nother blog for 'nother day.)
So you drive north. Say you're headed toward the Porcupine Mountains; you'll probably drive through Rhinelander and Eagle River. Make sure you stop at Kwik Trip, because you won't see another one for a long time. Actually, stop and get a nice sit-down meal in ER (that's Eagle River, Wisconsin) at the Craftsman or Bortolotti's Cin Cin - because there is a shortage of sit-down places up where you're going.
You might put Ontonagon, Michigan, into your GPS; in fact, you should. This tiny town of about 1,200 is rugged and utilitarian and boasts incredible views of Lake Superior. It's a quick stop-off to grab bar food and essential supplies if you're camping. But before you even get close, you'll drive through little towns like Conover and Lake O' Lakes. (Land O' is picturesque and charming and located in beautiful area thick with resorts. It's worth a stop.)
When you hit Watersmeet (go Nimrods!), you'll start to feel like you're finally in the real wilderness. You might be tempted to stop at Family Dollar for supplies, but don't. Wait for Bruce Crossing. If you're traveling at night, stop in Paulding and try to see the ominous and mysterious Paulding Light; if not, just keep going.
In Bruce Crossing, stop at Settler's Co-op for groceries - and souvenirs. It literally has everything. When you cross the threshold of the bizarre and fascinating grocer-cum-general store, you'll get a powerful sense that you're just a visitor in a very wild land. But it gets wilder.
Just north of Bruce Crossing is a short hike that will take you to O Kun-de-kun Falls, in the Baltimore River. It's pretty. Go do that thing.
Now you're getting into the wilderness! Between Bruce Crossing and Highway 26 there's a whole lot of gorgeous nothing. Trees as far as the eye can see. Swooping valleys rich with timber. Take turns driving, because you'll want to gawk.
If you hang a left at Rockland, you'll be on the road to Ontonagon. (There's a post office in Rockland, but don't get excited - that's about all there is.) If you change your mind and hang a right you'll be headed up to the Keweenaw, which deserves not a blog post but eleventy billion books dedicated to its beauty.
I'm going to stop there because it's late, I'm tired, and you're probably bored. Anyway, go to the UP but be respectful. The Yoopers can smell a tourist from a mile away. Oh, and here's more pictures. I took them with a Samsung phone so be nice.
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